How are we already at the end of the Sweet and Spooky Plushies?! These two weeks went by so fast, but I hope you enjoyed all the plushies we’ve been making. But, I saved my spookiest and most detailed plushie for last. If you love scary things, this free crochet plushie pattern is for you. Today’s pattern is all about how to crochet Zeke the Zombie, so let’s get into it!
When I tell you I had fun designing a character, I mean it was satisfying and awesome to see the vision come together. It made me smile and it made me feel good. With Zeke, I was cackling at the details and hurting into verses of “This is HALLOWEEN” until my husband questioned my sanity. That’s how much I loved putting in the details for Zeke the Zombie!
Now, the dangling eyeball and the bloody arm, and the exposed brain might seem like a little much to take in at first. But as always, I used very simple stitches and broke down each piece into manageable sections so it’s really easy to make. Plus, it’s a zombie, so if it’s not 100% perfect, it adds character!
Zeke doesn’t really remember how he got turned into a zombie. There’s no apocalypse and everyone else in his family is just fine, but one day Zeke just woke up feeling… different. He started to crave meat that was still a bit bloody, so his mom makes him steaks. The bright lights in the house made his head ACHE, so his dad helped him move into the basement where it was nicer.
Some days are hard and he gets frustrated not being able to do the things he used to. His sister says he didn’t really change that much and still hangs out with him to play video games. He’s pretty sure she lets him win at Mario Kart but she’d never admit it.
The full free pattern is written out below. For those who’d prefer to print the pattern and take it with you for on-the-go and to markup as you go, you can buy the inexpensive printable PDF from my Etsy and Ravelry shops. The PDF is formatted without ads or comments, so it’s easy to read.
Materials:
- 3.25mm crochet hook / D hook*
- #4 medium weight yarn – I used Yarn Bee Soft Secret in Avocado, Red, White, Black, Blush, and a dark gray
- stitch markers*
- tapestry needle*
- Polyfill stuffing*
- Optional: pink and black embroidery floss
*denotes affiliate link
Abbreviations:
- ch – chain
- SC – single crochet
- DC – double crochet
- HDC – half double crochet
- sl – slip stitch
Pattern Notes:
- Skill level: Intermediate – some amigurumi experience is helpful but not necessary
- Sizing: 9″ tall
- Gauge: 6S X 5R per inch
Useful Amigurumi Tips
- All patterns are in English and written in standard USA terms
- inc – increase by working 2 stitches into the same space
- dec – decrease across 2 stitches using an invisible decrease
- Keep stitches tight to prevent holes for stuffing to show through. If there are holes, go down a hook size.
- All pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Use stitch markers to mark the first stitch of each round.
- Safety eyes are used in these patterns, but feel free to stitch on eyes instead for children under 3 years old.
- If you have any questions, email me at [email protected]
Zeke the Zombie: Free Crochet Plushie Pattern
Head:
Round 1: With yarn in green, create a magic loop and work 6 SC into it. Place a stitch marker.
Round 2: Inc in each space by working 2 SC into each (12).
Round 3: *SC, inc* around (18).
Round 4: *SC 2, inc* around (24).
Round 5: *SC 3, inc* around (30).
Round 6: *SC 4, inc* around (36).
Round 7: *SC 5, inc* around (42).
Rounds 8-14: SC around for 7 rounds. Start to add the stuffing. Insert just one safety eye and secure the backing.
Round 15: HDC around through the front loops only. BO and trim the yarn.
Round 16: Switch to the pink yarn and SC around through the BLO of the last round (42).
Rounds 17-23: SC around for 7 rounds.
Round 24: *SC 5, dec* around (36).
Round 25: *SC 4, dec* around (30).
Round 26: *SC 3, dec* around (24).
Round 27: *SC 2, dec* around (18). Finish adding stuffing.
Round 28: *SC, dec* around (12).
Round 29: Decrease around (6). Cut the yarn and thread the tail through a tapestry needle. Run the needle under the front loops of each stitch and secure the yarn. Weave in the end.
Body:
Round 1: With yarn in green, create a magic loop and work 6 SC into it. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.
Round 2: Inc in each space by working 2 SC into each (12).
Round 3: *SC, inc* around (18).
Round 4: *SC 2, inc* around (24).
Round 5: *SC 3, inc* around (30).
Round 6: *SC 4, inc* around (36).
Round 7: *SC 5, inc* around (42).
Rounds 8-16: SC around for 9 rounds.
Round 17: *SC 5, dec* around (36).
Rounds 18-19: SC around for 2 rounds.
Round 20: *SC 4, dec* around (30).
Rounds 21-22: SC around for 2 rounds.
Round 23: *SC 3, dec* around (24).
Rounds 24-25: SC around for 2 rounds
Round 26: *SC 2, dec* around (18).
Round 27-28: SC around for 2 rounds. Then BO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Full Arm:
Round 1: With yarn in green, create a magic loop and work 6 SC into it. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.
Round 2: Inc in each space by working 2 SC into each (12).
Rounds 3-20: SC around for 18 rounds. Then BO, leaving a long tail to sew it on later.
Half Arm:
Round 1: With yarn in red, create a magic loop and work 6 SC into it. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.
Round 2: Inc in each space by working 2 SC into each (12).
Rounds 3-13: Switch to green yarn and SC around for 11 rounds. Then BO, leaving a long tail to sew it on later. Optionally, pull the starting tail of the red yarn out to the outside and untwist the yarn for a blood effect.
Legs (make 2):
Round 1: With yarn in green, create a magic loop and work 6 SC into it. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.
Round 2: Inc in each space by working 2 SC into each (12).
Rounds 3-24: SC around for 22 rounds. Then BO, leaving a long tail to sew them on later.
Shorts:
Round 1: With gray yarn, chain 19. Sl st to the first chain to form a loop (18).
Round 2-9: SC around for 8 rounds to make Leg 1. Then BO.
Repeat steps 1-9 for Leg 2, but don’t bind off.
Round 10: SC 18 on Leg 2 and then insert hook into a space on Leg 1, SC 18. You now have 1 round with 36 SC.
Round 11: *SC 5, inc* around (42).
Round 12: *SC 6, inc* around (48).
Rounds 13-22: SC around for 10 rounds. Then BO and weave in the ends.
Brain:
Make 3: With pink yarn, chain 150. Turn and slip stitch along the chain. BO and leave a long tail for sewing it on.
Use blocking pins to secure one end of the chain down to the center of the head. Bring the chain across to the back of the head and add another pin to hold it. Use the rest of the length to make the ridges and grooves of the brain by folding and bending the chain in on itself and pin as you go to hold it all in place. Repeat with the other chains until the head is covered.
With a piece of matching embroidery floss, or another length of the same yarn, sew down all the ridges by going through the folds and into the base of the head as well. Once everything is secure, remove the pins, weave in the ends and trim the excess yarn.
Eyeball:
Round 1: With yarn in black, create a magic loop and work 6 SC into it. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.
Round 2: Inc in each space by working 2 SC into each (12). BO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Round 1: With yarn in white, create a magic loop and work 6 SC into it. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.
Round 2: Inc in each space by working 2 SC into each (12).
Rounds 3-5: SC around for 3 rounds. Insert the safety eye into the center and secure the backing. If the stick of the eye is long, trim it back with clippers or melt with a lighter until soft and press it flat with the side of the lighter. Add a little bit of stuffing around it.
Round 6: Decrease around. BO and thread the tail through a tapestry needle and bring the yarn under the front loops of the remaining stitches. Weave in the end and trim the excess yarn.
Cut a length of red yarn about 10 inches long and thread it through the back of the eyeball. Hold one end tight and twist the other end until it’s tight and the yarn twists on itself when you bring your hands together. Hold the ends together and make a knot. Pull the knot through the center of the black piece we made first. You can make a knot closer to the eyeball to make it shorter and trim off the excess.
Wound:
Row 1: With yarn in red, chain 9.
Row 2: Turn, 3 SC into the first space, SC 6, work 5 SC into the last space. Turn to work along the other side of the chain, SC to the end and work 2 SC in the space you started with.
Row 3: Switch to green yarn and SC around in each space. Then BO, leaving a long tail to sew it on later.
Assembly
Now that we have all the parts of our free crochet pattern ready, we can start assembling Cedric! Add stuffing to just the ends of the arms and legs, and all of the body if you haven’t already. Then position the arms along the sides and use the tail yarn to sew them in place using a whip stitch. Use the tail yarn from the legs to attach the legs to the body.
Place the eye on the head and pin it in place. Then thread a tapestry needle with the tail yarn and sew the eye onto the head. Next, use the tail from the body to attach the head, going through one space on the body to one space on the head. Use pins to hold it in place as you sew and go through each space around. This makes sure that the head doesn’t wobble around.
Finally, dress the zombie in his pants. Embroider on a small nose with green yarn and a mouth with black embroidery floss.
And you’re done!
If you make him, tag me in your photos on Instagram! And don’t forget to check out all the other Halloween Plushies!
See you soon 🙂
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